If you’re visiting Canada as a person who likes dense, lively cities, our #1 recommendation is Montreal. It’s the strongest city for bike culture and infrastructure and it’s miles ahead on car-free streets and other pedestrian improvements, especially in the warmer months. Toronto and Vancouver stack up pretty well on transit so we can’t say that Montreal is the best there, but it’s unique with the Paris-inspired metro that’s full of interesting architecture and art.
- When to visit
With a climate similar to Minneapolis or Moscow, when you choose to visit this city matters a lot. June through September is peak season where the city is at its most lively, with pedestrian streets, festivals, and so on.
The city has both bike festivals like Go Velo Montreal as well as car events like Formula 1 Weekend.
May and October are pretty good too. November is usually barren and gloomy. The first major snowfalls around December look nice and picturesque but as winter drags on you can be dealing with temperatures well below freezing. March and April have milder and sometimes even nice temperatures but once the snow melts the city can be quite dirty and it won’t look the best until street cleaning is done by the beginning of May.
- Geography
A 90-minute flight north of New York City, Montreal is an island in the Saint-Lawrence river with a mountain (don’t you dare call it “just a hill”) named “Mont-Royal” that the city is built around. Directions here are a little wonky: this is considered east, this is west, and this is north and south. The convention is that east and west follow the flow of the river. To see the city more like a Montrealer, rotate the map like this so that the mountain is just north of downtown.
- Language
Montreal is a majority French-speaking city. Yes, in North America, not far from New York, there’s a city whose main language is French. Pretty cool. We have another video where we cover language dynamics and etiquette in Montreal in more detail.
- Neighbourhoods: Central
Here’s our Montreal starter pack: the areas you should see first. Number one is the Plateau. Just go to Mont-Royal metro station and walk around. It’s urbanist heaven, especially in the summer. You have the city’s longest pedestrian street plus some of its most-used bike corridors on Saint-Denis, Rachel, and Laurier. Also check out Avenue des Pins. One of the best parts of the Plateau is the small east-west streets like Roy, Duluth, Marianne, Villeneuve, Gilford, and Laurier. Another hit is the parks, like Laurier, La Fontaine, Jeanne-Mance, and Mont-Royal, which are extremely lively when the weather is nice. It’s legal to drink alcohol in parks in Montreal as long as you have food with you. Sundays also have the Tam-Tams, a drum circle by the Cartier statue.
Number two is Old Montreal. It’s touristy but still very worth seeing. Maybe start around Bonsecours Market, go to Place Jacques-Cartier, see City Hall, walk down Rue Saint-Paul and see Notre-Dame Basilica before wandering over to Place d’Youville. Old Montreal is planned for pedestrianization at some point. Number three is downtown, which is more hostile to pedestrians than we’d like but Rue de la Gauchetière in Chinatown is cozy and Sainte-Catherine is pretty nice now too. Maybe see Esplanade Tranquille, Place des Arts, and Square Phillips, then walk further west.
Our fourth recommendation is to go north from downtown through McGill University to climb up Mont-Royal to the famous lookout. If you have time, there are tons of trails to walk and a nice park around Beaver Lake. There are also a few other lookout points up here. The next easiest one to get to is the Camillien-Houde Lookout, which you can also walk up to from the Plateau.
- Neighbourhoods: Southwest
If you only have a weekend then those four areas might be all you can cover. If you have more time we recommend seeing more of the city. You could start southwest of downtown. Griffintown is a new neighbourhood built on former industrial land along the wonderful Lachine Canal. Following the canal will take you to Saint-Henri and Point-Saint-Charles, two classic Montreal neighbourhoods that are fun to explore. Don’t miss the Atwater Market. If you can get a bike we’d recommend biking further along the canal. One of our favourite afternoon trips is biking out to Rene-Levesque Park, or maybe even Old Lachine, then coming back along the riverfront trail past LaSalle and into Verdun, a fun neighbourhood with a popular pedestrian street on Wellington that’s also making lots of urbanist improvements. If the weather’s good, Verdun has one of the few beaches in the city. For more cycling, cross the bridge to Nun’s Island.
- Neighbourhoods: Northeast
If you have more time, there are lots of cool neighbourhoods on the other side of downtown. Outremont is unique, combining the francophone upper class with a large Hasidic Jewish population and architecture that feels very New York. Nearby is Little Italy and La Petite Patrie with the Jean-Talon Market and De Castelnau pedestrian street. There’s lots of good bike infrastructure here too on Bellechasse, Christophe-Colomb, and Saint-Denis. The latter two can take you up to the Prairies River with nice routes along the river or the interesting and unique Frederick-Back Park. East of downtown is the neighbourhood of Hochelaga-Maisonneuve with the summer pedestrianized Ontario Street, lots of new bike infrastructure, Maisonneuve Park, as well as the Olympic Stadium grounds, with attractions like the Biodome, Planetarium, and Botanical Gardens.
- Bike trips
If you’re looking to spend more time on a bike, here are a few suggestions. The racetrack at Jean-Drapeau Park is open to cyclists most of the time and is a fun experience. This strip of land is called the Petite Voie du Fleuve and actually has a bike path that ends up at a beach. You can access it from Jean-Drapeau Park or this Ice Bridge that links to Nun’s Island and Verdun. Another good day trip is biking to Chambly and back. If you’re looking for a multi-day bike trip, the Petit Train du Nord or Little North Train goes from Saint-Jerome to the Mont-Tremblant ski resort and beyond. You can bike to Saint-Jerome from Montreal or take the exo commuter train.
- How to arrive
The main airport is Montreal-Trudeau International. As of 2024, the transit connection is the 747 bus, which takes you to the metro. The bus costs $11, higher than a normal transit fare. There are fare machines at the airport or you can use one of two apps to buy a ticket. We’re looking forward to the future train connection to the airport but that’s 2027 at the earliest. You can also get a taxi or an Uber, which will roughly cost 30 to 60 Canadian dollars depending on time and destination.
Montreal has train connections to Ottawa and Toronto on VIA Rail’s Quebec City to Windsor corridor; it also connects to New York City on Amtrak’s Adirondack route. If you arrive in Montreal by train you’ll likely get dropped off at Gare Centrale (Central Station) downtown, with transit connections to the metro and the REM. Arriving by bus from Toronto or Ottawa usually means going to this bus station that’s right beside Berri-UQAM, a transfer station on the metro.
Depending on where you’re coming from it can make sense to drive to Montreal although you’ll probably want to leave your car at the hotel. Montreal is best explored by foot, bike, or metro.
- Where to stay
Like a lot of other cities, Montreal has the problem where its hotels tend to be either downtown or out by a highway in the suburbs. Of those two, downtown is better, especially near Old Montreal, but it can be expensive. If you’re staying further out, try to stay near a metro or REM station if possible. The very best experience though is if you can find a hotel or other rental outside of downtown within the central neighbourhoods, because those are really the life of the city.
- Transit
The Montreal metro covers the central city quite well. Green and Orange are the two main lines, which provide double coverage of downtown before diverging off. If you take the metro you’ll probably get pretty used to Lionel-Groulx and Berri-UQAM transfer stations. (Yes, it’s pronounced “Groo”, not “Groulx”.) The Green Line comes every 2 to 4 minutes during rush hour, 3 to 8 minutes off-peak, and 6 to 12 minutes on the weekend. The Orange Line is comparable but the Blue and Yellow Lines are less important and can have lower frequencies. On top of the regular metro, Montreal also has the REM, a fast regional metro. As of 2024 it connects downtown with the suburb of Brossard on the South Shore. In the future it will connect the West Island suburbs as well as the airport. If you can get a hotel near the REM, it should be a fast way to get downtown.
Transit in Montreal works on fare zones. Fare A is $3.75 and covers all modes — bus, metro, REM, and exo commuter train — on the island of Montreal. If you’re traveling between Montreal and its immediate suburbs, you need an AB fare, which is $4.50. At metro stations you can buy an OPUS card that you can load fares onto or you can buy a temporary “Occasionnelle” card with a few trips pre-loaded. Unfortunately, you can’t load multiple types of fares (like A and AB) onto the same OPUS card. You also can’t tap to pay with your phone or credit card, at least not yet.
- Cycling
We recommend getting on a bike to experience the city’s bike infrastructure. BIXI bike share is great but not optimized for tourists exploring around. A one-trip pass costs just over a dollar to unlock the bike and then 20 cents a minute to ride. That works out to $10 for a 45-minute ride or $20 for a 90-minute ride. If you’re going to use it a lot over a week or a weekend, consider getting a monthly membership for $22, which gives you unlimited 45-minute rides. When you leave you can cancel to avoid paying for more months. If you want the simplicity of just renting a bike for a day, a bike shop like Ma Bicyclette along the Lachine Canal will run you $45.
Helmets are mandatory on eBikes and we’ve seen police enforce it. They’re not mandatory on regular non-electric bikes and they’re not even socially pressured. Feel free to wear one or not, you won’t stick out either way.
- Food & Drink
There are a few foods that you might want to try when you’re in Montreal: Montreal-style bagels, Montreal-style smoked meat, and poutine, a Quebec dish that’s also become popular elsewhere in Canada. For some reason, Portuguese Chicken is also popular in Montreal specifically. Montreal’s basically endless array of cafes and bakeries are also worth a visit. If you’re looking for a beer garden, there’s some great ones along the canal and also sprinkled throughout the neighbourhoods.
- Safety
Montreal is a pretty safe city, definitely by US standards. Property crime like bike theft exists but violent crime is generally not a major concern and there aren’t really any neighbourhoods to avoid. The closest thing to mention is that metro stations near downtown, like Berri-UQAM and Lionel-Groulx, unfortunately can have people hanging around who are on drugs or acting erratically. We still travel through these areas often but it does keep us a little more alert.


